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Made to Order — every piece
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Bespoke to your dimensions
Solid wood, built to last
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Care & Maintenance
Looking after your furniture
Tables, chairs, benches and stools. Solid walnut, resin, cane, fabric and leather all age beautifully — each one just asks for something slightly different. Pick your material below.
Five habits that protect everything
Start here — this covers ninety per cent of it
Mats, always
Trivets under anything hot. Coasters under every glass.
Wipe it now
Blot spills within minutes, then dry. Never let water sit.
Lift, never drag
Two people for a table. Chairs by the seat frame, not the back.
Out of the sun
UV fades timber, leather and resin. None of it comes back.
18–24°C, 40–60%
Comfortable for you is comfortable for solid wood.
Never use on any of our pieces
- Silicone or aerosol polish
- All-purpose spray
- Bleach or ammonia
- White spirit & solvents
- Baby wipes
- Melamine "magic" sponge
- Scouring pads
- Hot items without a trivet
Care at a glance
MaterialCleanFeedAvoid
Solid woodDamp cloth, dry at once—Standing water
Oiled finishDamp cloth, dry at onceRe-oil every 6–12 monthsAbrasive cleaners
LacqueredDamp cloth, dry at once—Silicone polish
Epoxy resinSoft damp cloth—Heat, UV, solvents
Rattan & caneSoft brush or vacuum—Soaking, point loads
FabricVacuum weekly—Rubbing a stain
LeatherDust weeklyCondition every 6–12 monthsSolvent, saddle soap
MetalDamp cloth, dryTighten bolts twice a yearWire wool
Chairs, stools & benches
Frames, joints & seats
The hardest-working thing we make. Almost every chair that fails does so at a joint, and almost every loose joint started as a wobble nobody tightened.
Do
- Hand-tighten every bolt a few times a year — firm, not forced
- Lift by the seat frame, never the backrest or arm
- Push in by the seat; lift rather than scrape on hard floors
- Replace felt pads and glides as they wear thin
- Rotate chairs around the table so they soften evenly
Never
- Tipping back on two legs
- Standing on a chair to reach a shelf
- Stacking chairs not made for stacking
- Kneeling on a cane or woven panel
- Gluing a loose joint yourself
A joint has worked loose? Stop using the chair and message us first. The wrong adhesive, or glue over old glue, turns a 20-minute fix into a rebuild.
Solid wood
Walnut, oak, beech & pine
Solid timber moves with the seasons — a top can grow and shrink several millimetres across its width between a damp winter and a dry summer. Ours are built to float, not to be pinned rigid.
Do
- Dust with a dry cloth, along the grain
- Barely damp cloth for marks, then dry immediately
- A drop of pH-neutral washing-up liquid for grease
- Felt under laptops, vases, candles and rough bases
- Move runners and bowls every few weeks so the top ages evenly
- Humidify the room through the heating season
Never
- Leaving a surface wet to air dry
- Hot pans or teapots without a trivet
- Cold glasses without a coaster
- Furniture sprays and polishes
- A radiator or sunbeam right beside it
Oiled & hardwax finishes
Feed every 6–12 months
An oiled finish sits inside the timber, not on top of it. It feels like wood, and its great advantage is that you can repair it invisibly, at home. The trade-off is that it needs feeding.
Do
- Re-oil when the surface looks dry or water stops beading
- Sand lightly with 240–320 grit along the grain only
- Thin coats, always — never a thick one
- Buff off every trace of surplus after 15–20 minutes
- Test a new oil on the underside first
Never
- Flooding the surface with oil
- Sanding across the grain
- Using the table within 24 hours of oiling
- Binning oily rags screwed up
Re-oiling, step by step
- Clean. Barely damp cloth over the whole top. Let it dry for an hour.
- Sand, only if needed. 240–320 grit along the grain, then dust off.
- Apply sparingly. Hardwax or furniture oil on a lint-free cloth, along the grain.
- Wait 15–20 minutes. Then buff off all surplus with a clean dry cloth.
- Leave it. Touch-dry in hours, 24 hours before use, a week before heavy objects.
Oily cloths are a fire risk. Rags soaked in furniture oil can self-heat as they dry. Lay them flat outdoors or soak them in water before binning.
Lacquered & varnished
Prevention, not repair
A hard sealed film over the timber. It shrugs off spills far better than oil — but where oil can be patched, lacquer has to be refinished as a whole panel. So everything here is about prevention.
Do
- Barely damp cloth, dry immediately — that is all it needs
- Lift ceramics rather than sliding them
- Trivets under anything warm
Never
- Any abrasive, including cream cleaner
- Melamine sponges
- Silicone polish — no future finish will bond over it
- Hot dishes straight onto the surface
Epoxy resin
River tables & inlays
Resin looks like glass but behaves like a soft plastic: softer than the timber around it, more sensitive to heat, and the one material in your home that genuinely dislikes sunlight.
Do
- Trivets, every time — resin softens around 50–60°C
- Keep the table out of a sunbeam; UV is what turns it amber
- Rotate the table end-for-end once a year so it ages evenly
- Soft damp cloth, then dry
- Polish light hazing out with a plastic or acrylic polish
Never
- A hot mug or pan over the resin channel
- Acetone, alcohol gel, degreasers or any solvent
- Cutting or sliding ceramics across it
- Scouring pads or abrasive paste
Live edge & natural character
Knots, fissures & colour
A live edge keeps the outline of the tree, and with it the knots, mineral streaks and small fissures that say where the board came from. No two tops are alike, and yours will not match the photograph exactly.
Do
- Brush along the bark line — it holds more dust than a straight edge
- Expect hairline cracks to open in winter and close in summer
- Let the colour deepen; walnut mellows over the first year or two
- Tell us if a filled knot ever feels rough
Never
- Sanding a filled knot or fissure yourself
- Treating natural variation as a fault
- Leaving one object in the same spot for months
Rattan & cane
Handwoven panels
Light, strong and forgiving — as long as it stays dry and is never treated as a step or a shelf.
Do
- Soft brush, or vacuum on low suction
- Barely damp cloth for marks, then dry thoroughly
- Mist the underside lightly if a panel slackens in a dry room
- Keep away from radiators
Never
- Sitting or standing on a caned back or seat panel
- Soaking the weave
- Drying it with heat
Fabric upholstery
Velvet, bouclé, linen & weaves
Most damage to fabric is not caused by the spill but by what happens next. Blot, never rub. Work inwards, never outwards. Test on a hidden area first.
Do
- Vacuum weekly on low suction with an upholstery head
- Brush velvet pile in one direction to keep the sheen even
- Ease bouclé snags back through with a blunt needle
- Rotate and plump loose cushions weekly
- Blot spills with a clean white cloth, outside-in
Never
- Rubbing a stain
- A coloured cloth — the dye transfers
- A hairdryer, which sets the stain
- Any product before checking the cleaning code
Cleaning codes
WWater-based cleaner only
SSolvent-based only — no water
WS / SWEither water- or solvent-based
XVacuum and brushing only; professional clean for anything else
Leather
Clean, feed, keep out of the sun
Real leather is skin. Keep it clean, keep it fed and keep it out of the sun, and it develops the patina that makes a seat better at ten years old than at one.
Do
- Dust weekly; vacuum the seams with a soft brush
- Blot spills straight away with a dry cloth
- Clean and condition every 6–12 months
- Keep 30 cm clear of radiators and out of direct sun
- Expect it to soften, stretch and darken where you sit
Never
- Rubbing or soaking a spill
- Saddle soap on upholstery leather
- Baby wipes, alcohol gel or all-purpose spray
- Treating ink or dye transfer at home
Metal bases & legs
Powder-coated steel
A tough coating — but still a coating. Look after the point where the foot meets the floor and the rest takes care of itself.
Do
- Damp cloth, then dry
- Hand-tighten fixing bolts twice a year
- Keep floor protectors in place and replace them when thin
- Touch in any chip with matching enamel paint
Never
- Wire wool or abrasive cleaner
- Bathroom or oven cleaner
- Leaving splashes to dry at the foot
- Forcing a bolt past firm
Fixing common marks
Start with the gentlest method, always
Oiled woodWhite ring from a glass or mug
Moisture trapped in the finish, not damage to the timber. Lay a cotton cloth over it and press with a warm — not hot — iron, no steam, a few seconds at a time. Repeat in short bursts, then oil and buff. A dark ring means the water reached the timber: sand lightly and re-oil.
Oiled woodFine scratch
Sand along the grain with 320 grit, feather the edges out, dust off, then re-oil the whole panel rather than the patch so the sheen stays even.
Oiled woodSmall dent
Where fibres are compressed rather than cut, a drop of water left on the dent for an hour will often swell them back. Light sand and re-oil once fully dry.
Epoxy resinHaze or fine scratching
Plastic or acrylic polish on a soft cloth, small circles, then buff clear. Test a discreet area first. Never an abrasive paste or a power buffer.
FabricGrease mark
Cover with bicarbonate of soda for an hour to draw the oil out, then vacuum away. Only then consider a cleaner suited to the fabric code.
LeatherInk or dye transfer
Do not try this at home — solvents lift the top coat along with the ink. Message us and we will point you to a specialist.
Still not sure? Ask before you treat it.
We built your piece, so we know exactly which timber, finish and fabric went into it. A message with a photograph gets you a straight answer — and often saves a surface a shop-bought product would have ruined.
Monday to Sunday, until 8PM UK time.
